Back in time
The Golden age of steam train travel
YORK
railway station was the perfect setting to greet the steam hauled Waverley as it chugged its
way along the distinctively long platform.
The train was primed and prepared
to take us on one of the country’s most famous and best engineered tracks from Settle
to Carlisle for an authentic trip to recapture
the golden age of rail.
My excitement and that of my fellow
travellers was tangible and helped create an atmosphere of unconcealed pleasure
as we watched crimson heritage carriages moving steadily towards us under the
power of the Scots Guardsman 46115.
The evocative smell of the coal
driven steam engine filled our senses as it billowed out in dusky clouds before
disappearing upwards into a blue sky.
The polished engine resplendent in
its BR Brunswick green glinted in the early morning sun as slowly it came to a
halt with the sound of rhythmic shunting and a sudden clamping of wheels.
All of us were waiting with great
anticipation, for the trip across the Yorkshire
countryside in a style long forgotten. We were about to revisit the golden age
of rail when train travel was designed not only for swiftness and convenience
but for sheer pleasure from start to finish.
The prospect of spectacular views
and a landscape only visible from this line of track made it all the more
special because we were about to travel across some of the country’s most
remote and inaccessible regions.
Our group was made up of all ages
with various agility, the young and not so young. Some
to experience a moment in time, some to reliving their youth and the
serious train buffs, there to measure speed, sound and other technical parts of
the operation.
This was going to be a day return,
not only on an exceptional track that would take us up and over peaks, through dales
and across famous viaducts but it would also transport us back to the opulent time
of train travel.
Our party was met by our Great Rail
Journeys tour manager, Mike Williams who has been working with the company
almost since it was formed 25 years ago and whose love of travel, people, long
train journeys and hills made him the ideal guide.
This was the first steam train
journey that Great Rail Journeys had put on so it was it was also an initiation
for Mike who handed out our itineraries and other facts of interest. He too was enthusiastically looking forward
to the day and what was to unfold.
As we boarded carriages that had
passed many milestones of their own over the years, we settled into the plush
velvet seats taking in the surroundings and interior of carriages that are no
longer in standard use.
I was sitting at a table of four,
already set with white tablecloth and cutlery with a flower centrepiece and a
table lamp.
From my window seat I watched
people working out their own seating arrangements and the excitement was
clearly palpable.
We were filling up fast and soon I
was joined by a party of three who I was about to share the day with.
Michael, Sheila and Joan were out
to celebrate Joan’s first anniversary of her triple heart bypass in her 89th
year.
Across the isle a couple were
celebrating their 40th wedding anniversary in a way that had been
very much part of their courtship and marriage. He was a train buff from the
age of three and she had happily supported his passion, announcing that their
first date was sitting at a cold railway station waiting for a steam train to
pass by.
In the next booth there was a
couple who had recently moved to Yorkshire from Cambridge and wanted to experience the
county. They were sitting with a couple who had travelled from Scotland to
join the train for an adventure back in time.
The whistle blew and the train
slowly pulled out giving us a grand view of the station and in my opinion, the
perfect backdrop for the Waverley.
Built just outside the city walls,
it has magnificent curved decorative ironwork that dominates the 19th
century architecture. It is reminiscence of long forgotten days and
characteristic of a station that that has witnessed much change since it was
built in 1877 - then the largest railway station in the world.
Soon the train was picking up speed
and making its way towards Leeds.
My fellow passenger, Michael,
leaned across to point out some famous landmarks, places that had one time been
home to the majestic engines in the once extensive sidings, now a huge housing
estate and an original junction which was now the site of a massive
supermarket.
Michael, I discovered, was a York City
historian, avid cricketer, Yorkshire cricket club
fan and also a steam train enthusiast so I had the advantage of getting to know
local history along with what was in my itinerary.
Joan was also a York historian and was helping to compile a
book about the city and as we travelled, I shared their memories of yesteryears
and we also made a few of our own.
All three of my fellow travellers
had worked for the chocolate factories, Rowntrees and Terrys and my history
lesson on York
would not be complete without mention of the chocolate industry created in the
18th century that had, along with the railways, created the majority
of jobs for the people in the city.
As we approached Leeds
station, we passed the impressive circular building of the Corn Exchange built
in the 1860’s.
This said Michael escaped the
redevelopment of the city in the days when buildings were being pulled down
rather than renovated.
Here we picked up more passengers
and not long after leaving the station, a welcome champagne cocktail was served
with which we toasted the day.
I surrendered to a delicious full
English breakfast served by the dexterous skill of waiters who could place food
on our hot plates and tea and coffee in the breakfast cups, despite the swaying
motion of the train.
As the train swallowed up the miles
the urban city gave way to open countryside, my attention was taken by the
couple celebrating their 40th anniversary, despite my neighbour
Michael’s enthusiasm about a disused mill that we were passing and his account
of the demise of the industry.
Over the isle, the anniversary
husband had looked up from the books and charts in front of him, to point out
how we were climbing and to notice the sound of the engine.
I wanted to listen, to this quiet
man who could probably write his own book on the railway.
As he studied the books in front of
him, his wife smiled over and then turned back to staring out of the window,
lost in her own reveries.
She looked as though she was recalling
days gone by and dreams.
Suddenly she looked up:
“My husband has been mad about
trains since he was three years old, his mother would have to take him off the
window ledge because he would sit there
all day watching them.
“This trip is an anniversary gift
from our children,” she smiled fondly.
The train was heading for the Aire Valley
and into the Yorkshire Dales, calling at the historic railways stations, Shipley, Keighley and Skipton then at Appleby
where we were to stop to take on water.
We rolled on through rugged
countryside that opened out into vast areas of unspoilt and untouched lands.
Along the track people lined the
roads, bridges and grouped together at junctions to wave, men dipping their
flat caps in respect. We waved back
feeling like royalty but it was the grand and regal engine and its flamboyant
approach that was drawing the admiration.
Photographers were out in their
hoards, they were along the tracks, in the fields, on rooftops all seeking a
timely moment to capture a shot of history in motion.
We travelled on and upwards on one
of the country’s most arduous climbs from Settle junction which is a gradient
of one in 100.
Someone walking down the isle
stopped to ask us if we heard how hard the engine was working to carry its
freight towards England’s
highest station, Dent.
There was great excitement in the
carriages as people took their places by the
windows to watch for the Ribblehead viaduct.
Looming up ahead was the famous 440
yard long structure which has 24 arches, some up to 165 feet tall that took
four years to construct using the local limestone – a most spectacular bridge
that spanned the foot of the Pennines.
Directly in front was the 2414 ft
high peak of Whernside and then passing into a
cutting we entered the 2629 yard long Blea Moor tunnel.
Once out of the tunnel, spoil heaps
were our first sighting as we curved towards the 100 ft tall ten arch Dent Head
viaduct and then an imposing 11 arch Arten Gill viaduct which is 117 feet above
the water and then on to Dent, 1,150 feet above sea level and the highest
mainline station in England.
At Appleby where the train was to
take on water, we had 20 minutes to stretch our legs and decide whether we
wanted to spend the afternoon there or continue to Carlisle.
I was invited onto the footplate of
the steam engine and met engine driver Mick and fireman, John, who had both worked on the railways in the
early days before steam engines were disbanded and thrown on the scrap heap in
favour of the diesel.
Faces spotted with black soot from
the engine’s funnel, they had both been working with steam again since the
engine’s restoration and triumphant return and, said Mick:
“It’s like being lads again!”
I elected to continue on to Carlisle and enjoy the scenery yet to be discovered.
The train departed, waved off by
another band of smiling loyal supporters and again, along the track people
lined the roadside, waving and dipping their hats and we infectiously smiled
back.
All of this created a brilliant
atmosphere, feeling of cohesiveness and strangely a sense of national pride.
As we pulled into Carlisle
having had a light lunch served by the same immaculate waiters we all went off
in search of the city.
I had never been to Carlisle before
so wasn’t sure what to expect and on that particular day they had a continental
market with interesting smells that unfortunately lured me in because I then
spent too long exploring the market to see much of the City.
It was the stall that boasted
olives from Belfast that won my curiosity because
I just had to know how olives were related to Ireland
Carlisle is one of Britain’s oldest cities which dominates the
borderlands between England
and Scotland.
It has a stirring past linked to Celts,
Romans, King Arthur and Bonnie Prince Charlie who have all left their mark.
There is an ancient castle and
cathedral quite close together and I popped into the cathedral briefly to
hear the choir rehearsing.
My time was moving swiftly on so I
had to head back to the station.
Our homeward bound journey was
relaxed and our tables set for a four course silver service dinner.
Once again I was impressed by the
way our waiters could get the food on our plates, it was a topic of
conversation for most of us whose eyes were riveted to the spoons that could
hold slippery vegetables in their grip while waiters stood steely against the
rolling track.
The sun was still quite high in the
sky as we left for York
and as it slowly lowered it created a changing light across the escarpment.
Beams of sunlight hit various points on the hillsides and cast shadows and
reflections in the valleys which brought to mind the expression ‘God’s own county’.
It was verified with a broad and colourful
rainbow that crossed from one side of the track to the other.
“A perfect ending to a perfect day”
toasted my fellow passengers as we all raised our glasses.